Traveling California's Coast: A Guide To The Golden State's Shores

The Pacific Coast Highway is one of the most scenic drives in the world, stretching from California's border with Oregon all the way down to San Diego. The route takes around ten hours to complete without stops, but there is so much to see along the way that you could easily fill a week or more with sightseeing.

Starting in San Francisco, highlights of the drive include the Golden Gate Bridge, Half Moon Bay, Monterey Bay, Big Sur, Santa Barbara, Malibu, and Los Angeles. Each of these stops has its own unique attractions, from the natural beauty of beaches and state parks to quirky museums and art installations.

If you're planning a road trip along the California coast, you'll want to give yourself plenty of time to explore. Whether you're a nature lover, a city slicker, or a bit of both, this drive has something for everyone.

Exploring San Francisco

San Francisco is a vibrant city with stunning views, delicious food, and plenty of attractions. Here is a guide to exploring this diverse city:

Where to Stay

San Francisco offers a range of accommodation options, from luxurious hotels to Airbnbs and boutique hotels. Some recommended places to stay include:

• 1 Hotel (Embarcadero) for the best design hotel
• The Proper San Francisco (Downtown) for a unique design experience
• The Ritz-Carlton San Francisco (Nob Hill) for luxury and a great location
• The Fairmont San Francisco (Nob Hill) for classic luxury and a central location
• Hotel Kabuki (Japan Town) for a boutique and design experience

Where to Eat

San Francisco is a foodie's paradise, with a variety of cuisines and dining options. Some must-try restaurants and eateries include:

• Saru for incredible sushi and omakase in Noe Valley
• Izakaya Sozai for authentic ramen
• Nopa for delicious brunch options
• Rintaro for Japanese izakaya
• Kingdom of Dumpling for soup dumplings on Taraval Street
• El Farolito for burritos in the Mission District
• Tacolicious for tostadas, passionfruit margaritas, and queso
• Souvla for casual Greek-inspired dishes
• Blue Barn for fresh salads
• Absinthe Brasserie & Bar for French cuisine in Hayes Valley
• Bread n'Chu for delicious katsu sandwiches on Japanese milk bread
• Lucca Delicatessen for classic Italian-American sandwiches
• Brenda's French Soul Food for Creole-inspired dishes and brunch

Things to Do and See

San Francisco offers a wealth of attractions, from iconic landmarks to museums and parks. Here are some suggestions:

• Golden Gate Bridge: This iconic structure is a must-see, offering breathtaking views and photo opportunities.
• Coit Tower: This tower, designed to resemble a fire hose nozzle, offers panoramic views of the city from its peak in Telegraph Hill.
• Alcatraz Island: A former prison turned national park, offering a glimpse into history and great city views.
• Crissy Field & The Presidio Tunnel Tops: This newly opened national park space reconnects the city to the bay, featuring gardens, cliff walks, and family-friendly spaces.
• Golden Gate Park: This expansive park offers trails, picnic spots, playgrounds, gardens, and museums, including the Conservatory of Flowers and the Japanese Tea Garden.
• The Painted Ladies: These colourful Victorian and Edwardian homes are a famous landmark, commonly known as the "Full House" houses.
• Fisherman's Wharf: A bustling waterfront area with seafood, breathtaking views, and Ghirardelli Square for chocolate lovers.
• Lombard Street: Take a walk or drive down the "Crookedest Street in the World".
• Union Square: A great spot for coffee and people-watching.
• Chinatown: Explore the vibrant culture, shops, and restaurants in this historic neighbourhood.
• Hayes Valley: A trendy neighbourhood with unique shops, outdoor cafes, and restaurants.
• The Mission District: Stroll along Valencia Street for creative shops, affordable restaurants, and street art.
• Twin Peaks: Catch a breathtaking sunset and enjoy 360-degree views of the city from this iconic location.
• Ferry Building Marketplace: A food lover's paradise with various food stalls, eateries, and the lively Saturday farmers' market.
• Cable Cars: Ride these moving national historic landmarks for a unique perspective of the city.
• Museums: Explore world-class museums such as the MOMA, the de Young Museum, and the California Academy of Sciences.

Day Trips

If you have more time, consider taking day trips to nearby destinations like:

• Yosemite National Park: A popular natural escape, approximately 3.5 hours away.
• Napa Valley: Indulge in wine tasting and scenic views.
• Stinson Beach, Mount Tamalpais, and Muir Woods: Hike among the redwoods and enjoy the natural beauty of this area.

The Esalen Institute's natural hot springs

The Esalen Institute is a spiritual and educational nonprofit organisation offering year-round retreats on yoga, meditation, and other practices. It is located in Big Sur, just south of the San Francisco Bay Area, and is named after the Esselen Tribe, indigenous people local to the region who have lived in the area for thousands of years. The hot springs at the institute are considered to be among the most picturesque oceanside springs in the world. The springs are perched on a cliffside above the Pacific Ocean, with the lower floor hanging just over the sea. The upper level is handicap-accessible and features a garden, massage tables, and a hot tub. The lower level has two pools with mineral water fed directly from the hot springs, as well as several communal stone tubs and individual claw-foot tubs. The temperature in these pools can reach 119°F (48°C).

The Esalen Institute is open to visitors, but overnight reservations are required to soak in the hot springs. The closest airport is Monterey Regional Airport, which is a one-hour drive away. The institute is also accessible by road, with a two-and-a-half-hour drive from San Francisco, a five-hour drive from Los Angeles, and a two-hour drive from San Jose.

The institute offers a range of facilities and amenities for guests, including guesthouse rooms, cabins, and yurts. There is also a swimming pool, meditation hut, art barn, and garden. The institute is open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. most days, and wireless internet access is intentionally limited. There are no medical services on-site, and the closest amenities are a 20-minute drive away.

The best time to visit the Esalen Institute is during the months of May through November, as the Big Sur region generally experiences five wet months in winter and spring, followed by heavy fog in late spring and early summer. The ideal month to visit is September, which often has sunny and calm days.

Santa Cruz's beach and boardwalk

The beach has been a destination for railroads and trolleys since 1875. From 1927 to 1959, Southern Pacific Railroad ran Suntan Special excursion trains to the beach from San Francisco, Oakland, and San Jose every summer Sunday and holiday.

The Giant Dipper, a wooden roller coaster, is one of the most visible landmarks in Santa Cruz. The Giant Dipper and the Looff Carousel, which still contains its original 342-pipe organ built in 1894, are both on the US National Register of Historic Places. They were declared a National Historic Landmark in 1987, and the park is California Historical Landmark number 983.

There are old-fashioned carnival games and snack booths throughout the 24-acre park. The park has won the Best Seaside Amusement Park Award from Amusement Today every year since 2007, except for 2015. Although there is no admission fee and the beach is public, a parking fee is charged when the rides are open. Season or day passes can be purchased, or tickets for $1; each ride costs between 3 and 7 tickets.

Carmel-by-the-Sea's European-style architecture

The best way to travel the California coast is by car. The Pacific Coast Highway (Highway 1) is one of the most scenic drives in the world and offers a diverse range of attractions, from waterfalls and castles to beaches and theme parks.

Carmel-by-the-Sea, commonly known as Carmel, is a town in Monterey County, California, located on the Central Coast. With a population of around 3,200, it is known for its natural scenery and artistic history. The town has a unique blend of Renaissance glamour and Mediterranean charm, with Spanish colonial homes and Tudor-style cottages. The architecture is distinctively European, featuring intricate window rims and shutters, and secret passageways and hidden courtyards.

Carmel-by-the-Sea has a rich history that has influenced its architecture. The first Europeans to see Carmel were mariners led by Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo in 1542, but it wasn't until 1602 that Spanish explorer Sebastián Vizcaíno landed in what is now known as Carmel Valley. The Spanish established a settlement in 1797 when Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo was relocated to Carmel by St. Junípero Serra. The mission served as the headquarters of the Californian mission system until the Mexican secularization act of 1833.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Carmel-by-the-Sea began to develop as a summer colony and seaside resort. The Carmel Development Company was formed in 1902, and the town became an art colony, attracting poets, painters, musicians, and other creatives. The 1906 San Francisco earthquake also contributed to the town's growth as many displaced people moved to the area. The "Carmel Club of Arts and Crafts" was established, and the village became a picturesque enclave for artists.

The architecture of Carmel-by-the-Sea reflects its artistic and creative history. The town has no street lights or parking meters, and the buildings have no street numbers. The residential architecture is a blend of European styles, with rolled roofs, intricate window rims, and shutters. The houses are often adorned with whimsical features, such as secret passageways and hidden courtyards.

One notable aspect of Carmel-by-the-Sea's architecture is the absence of street addresses for many residences. Instead, they are given names such as "Nutcracker," "Sea-Esta," and "Rosebud Cottage." This peculiarity dates back to the town's origin and adds to its unique character.

The construction materials used in Carmel-by-the-Sea also contribute to its aesthetic. Granite, wood, sandstone, Carmel Stone, and glass are commonly used to reflect the magnificent ocean views and the surrounding natural landscape. The village's planning guidelines require new buildings to be constructed around existing trees, enhancing the town's natural beauty.

Carmel-by-the-Sea's commercial buildings also feature interesting design aesthetics. The Seven Arts Building, constructed in 1925, is a notable example of the town's early retail structures. It played an integral part in Carmel's art scene and has housed a photography studio and the Carmel Art Association. The Pine Inn, constructed in 1889, is one of the oldest structures on Ocean Avenue and features wood from San Francisco's Tivoli Opera House.

The artistic influence on Carmel-by-the-Sea's architecture is also evident in the whimsical Hobbit-like cottages designed by early designer Hugh Comstock. Additionally, the town has ultra-modern glass and steel edifices, such as the Della Walker House by renowned architect Frank Lloyd Wright.

In conclusion, Carmel-by-the-Sea's European-style architecture is a blend of Renaissance glamour and Mediterranean charm, with a unique blend of Old-World designs. The town's artistic history and natural scenery have influenced its architectural style, creating a whimsical and personal character that sets it apart from other coastal towns in California.

Big Sur's natural beauty

Big Sur is a stretch of California's Central Coast between Carmel and San Simeon, in the middle of the Santa Lucia Mountains. It is known for its natural beauty, including towering mountain peaks, lush redwood forests, pristine beaches, and rugged coastlines. Here are some highlights of Big Sur's natural wonders:

Garrapata State Park

Garrapata State Park offers hiking trails with serene natural beauty and is easily accessible from the Monterey Peninsula. The Soberanes Canyon trailhead leads hikers through redwood forests with incredible views of the Santa Lucia Mountains. On the ocean side of the Pacific Coast Highway, Painter's Point is a great spot to relax and admire the picturesque coastline. Garrapata Beach is also accessible via a dirt trail, but swimming is not advised due to cold waters and strong rip currents.

Bixby Creek Bridge and the Brazil Trail

The Bixby Creek Bridge is one of the world's most famous bridges, attracting many tourists. Just south of the bridge is the trailhead for the Brazil Ranch Trail, which offers challenging hikes with stunning views of the bridge, Sierra Creek, and the ocean. The trail showcases the area's natural beauty and provides an escape from the crowds.

Andrew Molera State Park

Andrew Molera State Park is the largest state park along the Big Sur coast, located 23 miles south of Carmel. It boasts a variety of hiking trails, including the East Molera Trail, which leads up through switchbacks to a ridgetop with views of meadows, redwoods, and the coastline. The Creamery Meadow Trail and River Trail connect to trails leading down to the beach, where surfing and beachcombing are popular activities. Campsites are available, but reservations are recommended.

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park and McWay Falls

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park is home to the famous McWay Falls, where McWay Creek forms an 80-foot waterfall onto the beach. The beach is closed to the public to preserve the natural environment, but a trail leads to a viewpoint for capturing breathtaking photos. Partington Cove Trail, about a 1.5-mile hike, leads to a small cove with a mix of sand and boulders, offering a quiet spot to dip your feet in the ocean.

Sand Dollar Beach and Jade Cove

Sand Dollar Beach is the longest beach in the area, popular with surfers due to its big waves. It offers stunning views and a secluded atmosphere, but the descent to the beach is quite steep. Nearby Jade Cove invites treasure hunters to search for Monterey Jade along the rocky shore, collecting only loose rocks that they can physically carry. Sand Dollar Beach connects to the Pacific Valley Bluff Trail, suitable for all hikers and offering beautiful coastal views.

Ragged Point and Piedras Blancas

Ragged Point, traditionally considered the southern gateway to Big Sur, offers breathtaking views from the Ragged Point Cliffside Trail. The trail leads down to Young Creek Beach alongside a waterfall. Hearst San Simeon State Park, about a mile and a half south, provides access to San Carpoforo Creek Beach, ideal for beachcombing, surfing, and surf fishing. Point Piedras Blancas Beach is another great spot to observe elephant seals from the bluff top.

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