Exploring The San Blas Islands: A Travel Guide

The San Blas Islands are a group of tropical islands off the northern coast of Panama, home to the Guna people. With their pristine white sands and clear blue seas, the islands offer a unique and unspoiled natural wonder that is well worth exploring. Getting to the islands can be challenging and deliberately so, as the Guna people control tourism on their own terms. There are several ways to get to the San Blas Islands, including flying, sailing, and travelling by 4x4 jeep and water taxi. The islands offer a range of activities such as snorkelling, swimming, and exploring shipwrecks. Visitors can also experience the local Guna culture and enjoy delicious local cuisine, such as lobster.

Getting to San Blas Islands

Getting to the San Blas Islands

The San Blas Islands are located in the Northwest of Panama, which borders Colombia to the east and Costa Rica to the west. There are several ways to get to the islands, but it should be noted that access is difficult and only a few islands are open to tourists. There is no public transport, and land ownership is limited to the Kuna people, so most visitors opt for packages that include overland and boat transport to the islands.

By Plane

The fastest way to get to the San Blas Islands is by plane. You can fly from Panama City to El Porvenir, which has a small airstrip that can accommodate small private planes. Other islands with airstrips include Achutupu, Garti/Carti, Corazon, de Jesus, Playon Chico, and Rio Sidra. It is recommended to book flights in advance as there is high demand and only small aircraft are used. Another option is to use a seaplane, but you will need to hire a water taxi or boat to get around the islands.

By Boat

You can also reach the San Blas Islands by boat from Panama or Colombia. From Panama City, you can take a sailboat charter or a speedboat to the islands. This option typically includes a combination of overland transport by 4x4 jeep and a water taxi (lancha) to the islands. The trip takes around one day. Alternatively, you can take a multi-day boat trip from Colombia to Panama, which sails through the San Blas Islands. This trip usually takes around 4-5 days, with a 2-3 day layover in the islands.

By Bus

If you are already in Panama City, you can take a bus to the San Blas Islands. This is typically followed by a boat ride around the islands.

Island hopping

The San Blas Islands are located in the Caribbean Sea, off the northern coast of Panama. The islands are home to the Guna people, who have maintained political autonomy from the Panamanian government since a revolution in 1925. As such, the Guna control tourism to the islands and benefit directly from tourist dollars, which are largely spent on education, health, and permaculture.

There are several options for island-hopping tours of the San Blas Islands, ranging from 2 to 5 days. Most tours include transportation to and from Panama City or Cartagena, Colombia, as well as accommodation, meals, and activities such as snorkelling and volleyball.

A typical 3-day island-hopping tour might include the following:

Day 1

You'll be picked up from your accommodation in Panama City around 5 am and driven for around four hours to a port, where you'll board a water taxi to the islands. You may stop at one of the Carti islands en route, where there is a sizeable Guna community. Upon arrival at your first island, you can expect a lunch of local seafood and rice, followed by free time to swim, snorkel, play volleyball, or simply relax on the beach.

Day 2

After breakfast, you'll hop to another island, spending a few hours exploring before moving on to your next overnight destination. Along the way, you might stop at a community site with beds and, of course, a volleyball net. In the evening, you'll have dinner and drinks, followed by a beach bonfire.

Day 3

On your last full day, you'll visit one final island for some last-minute beach time and a visit to a Guna village. You'll then head back to the mainland, arriving in Panama City in the early evening.

It's important to note that the San Blas Islands are a remote destination with limited infrastructure. There is little to no internet access, and no cell service, credit card payments, or ATMs. Accommodations are typically simple cabins, and cold showers are common. The Guna people may charge a small fee for taking their photograph ($1) and will also expect payment for any drinks or snacks purchased on their islands.

When planning your trip, be sure to pack light and bring the following essentials:

• Passport
• Waterproof jacket
• Towel and swimwear
• Camera
• Water
• Sleeping bag or sheets
• Antibacterial hand gel
• Sun protection, including sunscreen, hat, and light beach cover-up
• Bug repellent

Boat tours

Sailing from Colombia to Panama

This option typically takes around 48 hours if sailing non-stop. The journey usually starts in the Colombian city of Cartagena and takes about five days, with two full days spent sailing the open ocean. This option includes a 2-3 day layover in the San Blas Islands. It is important to do your research to ensure you have a seaworthy boat and a dependable captain. This trip is not recommended for those who get seasick, as the open ocean can be rough. The cost of this trip is typically around $550, including food, and there may be an additional tax fee of about $100.

Speedboat from Capurganá, Colombia

This option offers more time on the islands and less time on the boat. It is a four-day, three-night trip that costs around $350, including food but excluding drinks. To get to Capurganá, you can take an overnight bus from Medellin or Cartagena to Turbo and then take a two-hour ferry.

Multi-day boat trip from Colombia to Panama

This trip usually lasts five days, with two days spent sailing the open ocean. It is a great option for those who want to experience both Colombia and Panama and have more time to explore the San Blas Islands. There are now over 50 sailing boats operating on this route. The cost of this trip is typically around $550, including food, plus an additional tax fee of about $100.

There are several options for boat tours departing from Panama City. One option is a two-day trip that includes a bus ride to the islands and a boat tour around them. Another option is a three-day, two-night tour that includes a 4x4 drive from Panama City to a port, followed by a water taxi to the island. A third option is a sailing trip from Panama City to Cartagena or vice versa, with a 2-3 day layover in the San Blas Islands. This trip usually takes 4-5 days and offers more time to explore the islands.

Once you arrive at the San Blas Islands, there are various boat tour options to explore the different islands. These include island-hopping tours, snorkelling tours, and day trips to specific islands or natural pools. These tours typically range from one to four days and offer opportunities to interact with the local Guna people, swim, snorkel, and relax on pristine beaches.

The Kuna people

The Kuna (or Guna) are an indigenous people of Panama and Colombia. They are the native inhabitants of the San Blas Islands, which are politically autonomous from mainland Panama. The Kuna people resisted the Panamanian government's attempts to suppress their customs and traditions in the early 20th century, culminating in a successful revolt in 1925 known as the Dule Revolution. As a result, they gained cultural autonomy and continue to control tourism on their own terms.

The Kuna have a rich history and unique culture. They are believed to be the descendants of the Carib Indians, originally occupying the central region of what is now Panama and the neighbouring San Blas Islands. They have their own language, Tule, which is also what they call themselves, meaning "people". Spanish is also widely spoken, especially in education and written documents. The Kuna are a matriarchal society with a well-structured political and social organization. Each island has its own chief, called a Sahila or Saila, who is the political and religious leader of the community. The Kuna families are matrilineal and matrilocal, with the groom moving in with the bride's family and taking their last name.

Agriculture, fishing, and manufacturing traditional clothing are the main sources of income for the Kuna people. Their diet consists primarily of plantains, coconuts, and fish, supplemented by imported foods and wild game. The women of the Kuna community are known for their vibrant and colourful clothing, especially their blouses called "molas". These elaborate embroidered garments are a unique art form and a primary attraction for the restricted eco-tourism allowed on the islands.

Where to stay

The San Blas Islands are home to the Guna people, who maintain political autonomy from mainland Panama. As such, they control tourism on their own terms and benefit directly from tourist dollars, which go towards education, health, or permaculture.

There are a few options for accommodation in the San Blas Islands, with some travellers opting for packages that include overland and boat transport to the islands.

Tents or Cabañas

If you arrange a tour from Panama City, you will typically stay in tents or cabañas. A 4x4 driver will pick you up from your accommodation in the capital and drive you for around four hours to a port, where a water taxi will take you to the island.

Lodges

If you fly to the islands, you will need to stay in one of two lodges: Sapibenega or Yandup Lodge. This option is pricier and means you will miss out on the experience of travelling by boat, but it is a more comfortable choice.

Overnight Island Stays

You can also opt for an overnight stay on one of the islands. These can be booked through companies like San Blas Frontera, which offers stays on Isla Gorguinega, Isla Asseryaladup, and Isla Iguana, among others.

Hotels

There are a few hotels near the San Blas Islands, including Isla Perro - Barco Hundido, Catamaran in San Blas, and Enjoy San Blas Diablo Island.

Frequently asked questions