
When it comes to glacier travel, safety is paramount. Roping up with others is essential for security when crossing a glacier or ascending a steep snow slope. The right rope will depend on a few factors, such as the number of people, their experience, and the size of the crevasses you'll encounter. A typical setup for beginners is to have at least three people on a rope, while a two-person team is more challenging and suited for experts only. The spacing between climbers is crucial, as it needs to be enough to bridge crevasses but not too much to make it difficult to stop a fall or communicate effectively. The least experienced person should be in the middle of the rope, with the most experienced at the ends. When it comes to choosing a rope, a lightweight static rope is a good option, with some recommending a 6mm tech/dyneema rope for its weight advantages. However, some climbers prefer a small-diameter dynamic rope, such as an 8mm rope, for its ability to handle falls better. Dry treatment is also recommended for glacier ropes.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Length | 30m minimum for a team of two, 40m-50m is ideal |
Diameter | 6mm-8mm |
Weight | 2.35 lbs-2.71 lbs |
Dry treatment | Dry treatment is pretty much required for glacier ropes |
What You'll Learn
The lightest weight rope for big day, minimal gear missions
When it comes to selecting a rope for glacier travel, there are several factors to consider, including the intended activity, the number of people in your party, and the size of the crevasses you may encounter.
For big day, minimal gear missions, a lightweight rope is desirable. The Petzl RAD line is a popular choice for glacier travel, although it requires additional specialised equipment and is not suitable for leading. It is also important to ensure that your rope is long enough. For a two-person team, a minimum of 40 to 60 meters is recommended, while a three or four-person team can typically use a 50-meter rope.
Several ropes are recommended for glacier travel, including the Beal Rando (8mm), the Edelweiss Discover (similar to the Rando), and the Sterling Fusion Photon DryXP (7.8mm). The lightest option mentioned is the Edelrid Skimmer Pro Dry Climbing Rope at 7.1mm and 2.4 lbs for 30 meters.
It is important to note that ropes below 7.7mm are too small for an ATC device, and some ropes may be unsafe with a munter. A dry treatment is also recommended for glacier ropes. Additionally, consider the spacing between climbers, which should be enough to bridge crevasses but not so much that it becomes difficult to stop a fall or communicate effectively.
Glacier travel requires careful planning and consideration of various factors to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience.
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The best length for a two-person team
When it comes to glacier travel, safety is paramount. Travelling in a pair is more challenging than travelling in a group of three or more, as it is more difficult for one person to stop their partner's fall and then perform a rescue. Therefore, it is recommended that only experts travel in pairs.
If you are part of a two-person team, it is best practice to use a longer rope than you would with a larger team. A good rule of thumb is to use the "10 minus" equation: take the number of people on your team, subtract it from 10, and this gives you the number of double arm spans between climbers. In the case of a two-person team, this equates to 8 arm spans of rope between climbers.
The exact length of rope you need will depend on the average size of the crevasses you'll encounter, and how much rescue rope you want to carry. For a two-person team, a 60-metre rope is recommended as a minimum, although some sources suggest 40 or 50 metres may be sufficient.
It is also important to consider the diameter of your rope. While a thinner rope will be lighter, it may not be compatible with certain devices and hardware, and it may be more difficult to grip. For this reason, ropes under 7.7mm in diameter are generally considered unsafe.
Finally, it is worth noting that some sources recommend pre-rigging your rope with prusiks to aid in a crevasse rescue, while others suggest carrying the necessary cords on your harness and setting up the slings only if you need them, as this keeps your gear free for a wider range of uses.
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Rope spacing and order
The spacing and order of your rope team are crucial considerations when planning your mountaineering trip. Here are some guidelines for determining the spacing and order of your team when travelling on a glacier:
Spacing on the rope:
The distance between climbers on the rope will depend on the size of the crevasses you may encounter and the number of people on your rope team. You need enough space between climbers to bridge the crevasses safely. If you're travelling in an area with larger crevasses, such as Alaska or the Himalaya, you'll want to increase the distance between climbers.
A general rule of thumb for moderate-sized crevasses is to take the number of people on your rope team and subtract that from 10. This gives you the number of double "arm spans" between climbers:
- 2 climbers: 8 arm spans between climbers
- 3 climbers: 7 arm spans between climbers
- 4 climbers: 6 arm spans between climbers
For a three-person team, depending on conditions, you may choose to leave about five arms' length, or roughly 30 feet, between climbers.
Order on the rope:
The order of climbers on the rope depends on several factors, including size, weight, and experience. Here are some key considerations:
- The least experienced person(s) should be in the middle of the rope.
- The biggest person should be at the uphill end as the team ascends the mountain and the last person as the team descends the glacier.
- Those with the most route-finding and navigation experience should be at the front to navigate around crevasses and watch for hazards.
Tying into the rope:
Once you've determined the spacing and order of your rope team, it's time to tie into the rope. For a three- or four-person team, each climber will tie into the rope using a knot such as a figure-eight on a bight or a butterfly knot. Here's how to tie into the rope for a three-person team:
- The middle person ties into the centre of the rope using a figure-eight on a bight and clips the knot into the belay loop of their harness using a non-locking and locking carabiner.
- Measure about five or six arms' length in each direction of the middle climber.
- The end climbers use the same process to tie into the rope and will have excess rope for potential rescue.
- The end climbers coil the remaining rope using a butterfly coil and store it inside their backpacks.
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Pre-rigging for glacier travel
The advantage of pre-rigging is that it saves time, but some climbers choose not to pre-rig because the slings can get in the way as you're walking and add to the number of things you have to manage.
If you're not pre-rigging, you'll need to carry the necessary cords on your harness and set up the slings when you need them, keeping the gear free for a wider range of uses.
One user on Reddit recommends Beal's Gully rope for glacier travel, but notes that it still works okay with tubes and regular Munters, and 5mm prussik cord. Another user recommends the Petzl RAD line for glacier travel, but notes that you will need more than 20m of it and it only works with certain devices that Petzl has specifically tested with it.
Another user recommends the Beal Rando, noting that it is sold in 20/30/40m lengths and would be good for a two-person team on a glacier.
One user on MountainProject.com recommends a rope length of 45m for a two-person team, with 15m between each climber. They also recommend using a micro traction device.
Another user on MountainProject.com recommends a rope length of 50m for a two-person team, with 15m between each climber. They also recommend using a Roll-n-Lock device, which they say works with the Sterling Fusion rope.
It's important to consider the size of the crevasses you'll encounter and adjust your rope length and team spacing accordingly.
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Running belay
A running belay is a technique used in glacier travel to provide security for a team of mountaineers. It involves the lead climber placing one or more pieces of protection, typically a snow picket or an ice screw, that the rope is secured to. The rope is then clipped to a carabiner on a sling, and the anchor holds the rope and team in case of a fall. This allows the team to move together at the same time, providing an efficient way to move across the glacier without the need for a stationary belay.
When using a running belay, the spacing between climbers is important to ensure safety and efficiency. The number of people on the rope team and the potential size of crevasses will determine the distance between climbers. For example, on a three-person team, there should be seven arm spans of rope between each climber. The middle person should be the least experienced, while the two end climbers should be more experienced and carry the remaining rope for a possible rescue.
It is also essential to consider the type of terrain and the level of risk when deciding whether to use a running belay. If there are no crevasses or other hazards, unroping and climbing independently may be a better option to save time. Additionally, if the terrain is very steep, pitching out the climbing may be a safer choice than using a running belay.
When placing protection for a running belay, it is crucial to assess the acceptable level of risk. If there is only one piece of protection for the entire team, it should be strong enough to hold a fall if multiple people fall at the same time. In some cases, multiple pieces of protection may be necessary to increase security. If there is no more protection available, a stance/hip belay or t-slot with an ice axe can be used, but these methods can be time-consuming.
Overall, a running belay can be a useful technique for glacier travel, but it is important to consider the risks and alternatives before deciding to use it. It provides security for the team while allowing them to move together efficiently. However, it can also be time-consuming, especially when placing multiple pieces of protection.
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Frequently asked questions
Some good lightweight ropes for glacier travel include the Petzl RAD line, Beal Rando, and Edelweiss Discover.
When selecting a rope for glacier travel, it is important to consider the size of your team, the spacing between climbers, and the order of climbers on the rope.
The spacing between climbers on a rope team can vary depending on the size of the crevasses and the number of people on the rope. A general guideline is to take the number of people on the rope team and subtract that from 10 to get the number of double "arm spans" between climbers.
It is important to keep slack out of the rope by matching the pace of your teammates. The rope should hang at about a 45-degree angle from your harness and just slightly touch the ground. Communicate with your team members and be prepared to self-arrest if someone slips or falls.